Starter OSRAM ST 111 for fluorescent tubes from 4 to 65 W (up to 80 W) in a single circuit at 230 V — the universal starter for magnetically ballasted fittings.
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The OSRAM ST 111 is the universal starter for the single circuit: one starter, one lamp, on a 230 V circuit with a magnetic ballast. It covers practically the whole T8 and T12 range — from the small 4 W batten to the 65 W tube, and up to 80 W.
The starter is the wearing part of a conventional fluorescent fitting: at each switch-on its bimetal heats up, closes, then opens to produce the voltage surge that strikes the tube. A built-in suppression capacitor limits radio interference. Always change the starter together with the tube: a tired starter makes even a brand-new tube blink and burns out its cathodes within days.
A starter is only used with a magnetic ballast (choke). A fitting with electronic control gear has no starter at all: the unit handles preheating and ignition itself. Operation at 230 V, 50 Hz.
Equivalents from other brands — with matching characteristics (same power, same range, same mounting), the job is done by PHILIPS S10 and SYLVANIA FS-11. ⚠️ Always check overall size, terminals and starting method before replacing control gear in an existing luminaire: these differ between brands.
| Brand | OSRAM |
|---|---|
| Type | Starter (glow switch) for fluorescent tubes |
| Power range | 4 to 65 W (up to 80 W) |
| Circuit | Single circuit (one lamp per starter), 230 V |
| Input voltage | 230 V, 50 Hz |
| Mounting | Starter holder in the fitting — quarter turn |
ST 111 or ST 151 — which one do I need?
The ST 111 for the single circuit (one lamp on its own 230 V circuit), which is the most common case. The ST 151 is reserved for the series circuit (two lamps in series on 230 V). They are not interchangeable: fitted in place of the other, the tube will not light.
A new tube blinks but will not light — what should I do?
Start with the starter: it is the most common cause and the cheapest. A worn starter can no longer strike the lamp and leaves the tube blinking — which damages the cathodes of the new tube. If it still blinks with a new starter, check the ballast and the lampholders.
Can I keep it if I move to electronic gear or an LED tube?
No. With electronic control gear the starter comes out of the circuit. With an LED tube, the starter must be removed or replaced by the starter link (fuse) supplied with the tube — fitting a real starter would short-circuit the LED tube.
📦 Minimum order quantity: 10 pieces
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